Putto sketch by Maggie Cowling

 

 

Margaret Cowling Arts

Sicily

Eastern Sicily

Every town in Sicily is distinct in nature, history and character. Siracusa, our base for several nights, is particular for its wealth of ancient history, famous characters like Archimedes, and more than its share of tyrants, admirals and wonderful Greek tragedy.

The ancient island of Ortygia, now linked to the mainland by bridges, looks both medieval and baroque, with markets winding about its streets, harbours to one side and temperamental seas the other.

Siracusa harbour
From the bridge to Ortigia, Siracusa

Siracusa abounds in archeological and mythological sites such as the Font of Aretusa, the Greek theatre, and Roman Amphitheatre.

Even the cathedral was originally constructed in the 5th century BC as a temple dedicated to Athena. Some of its doric columns are still visible, in spite of many architectural transformations and reconstructions over the last two and a half thousand years, including an astounding baroque facade from the 18th century.
 

Siracusa square
Piazza del Duomo, Siracusa
Gargoyles
Gargoyles, Noto

Siracusa is also our point of departure for an excursion to Noto, a purely baroque town of golden sandstone and gargoyled corbels.

Peacock feather seller, Noto
Peacock feather seller, Noto
Window, Noto
Window, Noto

Our final destination is Catania. Sitting at the foot of Mt Etna, it is little wonder that much of Catania’s architecture reflects the Spanish baroque style of the period immediately after the eruption of 1693, and that the primary building material is volcanic stone.

The character of Catania has been strongly affected by the presence of the volcano. Sicily’s second largest city (after Palermo), Catania exists at several levels, physically and historically, according to the path of the lava flows.


Fountain, Catania
Catania fish market
Painting at Pescheria market, Catania
Catania fish market
Pescheria, Catania
Duomo, Catania
Duomo, Catania


We visit the Roman theatre and odeon, very much part of living Catania, whose residents have built on the very perimeters of the theatre, and we paint in amongst the hive of activity in the fish market with its striking red umbrellas and crusty sword fish sellers.

In the evenings we can join the locals in the passeggiata up the elegant Via Etnea.

Lo Liotru elephant fountain, Catania
Lo Liotru elephant fountain, Catania
Catania
Catania