Putto sketch by Maggie Cowling

 

 

Margaret Cowling Arts

SICILY

3 April - 27 April 2009

Painter or discerning traveller

This tour caters for painters (professional and student) and also for those travellers and photographers interested in absorbing the culture, history and landscape of Sicily. There is one tour leader for painters and another for 'lookers'.

Travel is minimised, so that you maximise viewing and appreciation of each location, flying into Palermo and out of Catania. We offer the more picturesque of similar alternatives such as Vulcano rather than Etna or Stromboli, and the temples of Selinunte rather than Agrigento. Maximum enjoyment, minimum fatigue.

We include two essentials in the appreciation of the flavour of Sicily (both ignored by less well planned tours): the beauty of wild flowers in sunny Spring time and the colour of Trapani’s 16th Century Easter procession.

We follow a trail of civilisations and cultures, from ancient Phoenicians and Greeks to Romans, Saracens, Normans and Spanish. Each has passed through this diverse island leaving its legacy in the magnificently preserved architecture, artworks and in the spirit of today's Sicilians.

Palermo
Palermo
Painting in the Fish Market
Painting in the Pescheria (fish market), Catania

The artist and traveller will find markets, fishing villages, ruins of temples and theatres amidst a varied landscape: mountain views, plains, and stunning coastlines.

We even visit the volcanic Aeolian Islands, still so strongly evocative of their role in the mythology of Homer. The cuisine encountered at each stopover is exquisite and unforgettable: from couscous and panelle to cassata and canoli.

Western Sicily

We begin our tour in the busy capital of the island, Palermo.
It nestles amongst impressive limestone mountains on the north west coast of the island.

Superimposed over its Phoenician origins, and strikingly evident today, is the architecture of Norman Sicily when, in a golden age, Norman kings assumed the customs and learning of their Arab predecessors.

Palermo
San Giovanni degli Eremiti, Palermo

High above Palermo and the Conca d’Oro valley, once famed for its citrus groves, sits Monreale. It boasts views to the port and a 12th century Norman cathedral, which combines Byzantine mosaics, Islamic tiling and sculpted Norman cloisters.

Our painting sites in Palermo are evocative of their history – be it Arab-Norman or the Spanish Baroque – yet they are also part of an exciting, living city.

Mosaics in Monreale
Mosaics, Monreale Cathedral

Cloister, Monreale Cathedral
Via dei Calderei
Via dei Calderai (Street of the Tinkers), Palermo

We enjoy a special dinner of authentic local cuisine and recommend various eating venues.

The painting (and non-painting) sites are easily accessible by foot or we travel by coach.

For the non-painter there are many attractions from the superb archeological museum to colourful markets, intricate mosaics and elaborate Jesuit churches.

Next we move down the west coast to the port city of Trapani, only a ferry ride away from North Africa. The local fishing and naval scenes are great painting subjects, and Trapani serves as a convenient base for day excursions. Our highlight is the famous 16th century Easter pageant, the Misteri, with 16 bands and choirs - a most moving experience, a community on parade living a strongly felt tradition.

We visit the Phoenician island of Mozia and its salt pans dotted with red-capped windmills. Above Trapani, perched on the ancient site of a Phoenician temple, is the beautifully preserved Norman town of Erice, where the almond biscuits are irresistible

The Misteri, Trapani
The Misteri Easter festival, Trapani
Mozia
Salt pans and windmill, Mozia
Erice
Erice

Our next base is Marinella, a quiet little fishing village at this time of year, adjacent to the extraordinary archeological park of Selinunte whose earliest ancient Greek temple dates to the 6th century BC.

The local fishermen welcome us around their little port where they mend nets or gossip at the bar.


Selinunte Archeological Park
Fisherman mending net
Marinella
Painting at Marinella
Marinella